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1. With the rifle upside down, remove the tiny e-clip (64) on the
bottom of the pull rod pin (63). Use a kleenex or paper towel to trap
the clip as you remove it so it doesn't go flying into space and
limbo. It's a cinch you'll never find it again. 2. Removing the pin
(63) frees the rear hinge block (25). If the pull rod is broken at
this end, make sure you can get the broken stub out of the hinge
block.
3. Unscrew the pull rod (27) from the front hinge assembly (29-31).
Again, if the pull rod is broken at this end, make sure you can remove
the broken stub from the hinge..
4. Remove the plastic sleeve (28) from the broken pull rod. If you
try to pull it off, it sometimes tightens down and stubbornly resists
being removed. The trick is to clamp the stub of the pull rod in a
vise. Then using pliers, get between the plastic sleeve and the vise
jaws and PUSH the sleeve off of the rod.
5. Screw the new pull rod into the front hinge assembly (29-31).
Screw it in until it bottoms in the hole. There is no need to tighten
it excessively.
6. Slide the plastic sleeve over the new pull rod.
7. Thread on the locknut (36) and run it up to the end of the
plastic sleeve.
8. Thread on the rear hinge block.
9. Lay the rifle on its 'stomach', with the sights on top.
10. Set the Cocking Arm (63) so that the grip (58) is about 5
inches from the body of the rifle.
11. Screw the rear hinge block (25) in or out until its hole lines
up with the pin holes on the cocking arm.
12. Drop the pin (63) in place. Now the pull rod assembly is just a
little over-long. As you push the cocking arm closed, it should go
over center and snap lightly into place alongside the stock.
13. Replace the e-clip (64)
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